Complete Travel Guide to Bushehr
As soon as travel outside Iran has become unaffordable for many Iranians in the recent years, they still continue travelling but inside Iran. And Bushehr has become one of the most popular destinations of the past few years. But I am absolutely sure that Bushehr can be a brilliant destination not only for Iranians, but also for foreign travelers who want to explore the diversity of regions and cultures of Iran. So, I have prepared the most complete guide to Bushehr, including all the practical information that you may need to plan your trip. Let`s get started!
Bushehr is the central city of the Bushehr Province. It`s a port located by the Persian Gulf, although the climate here is more tolerable than in, let`s say, Hormozgan Province (Bandar-Abbas and the islands). It means that if you travel to Bushehr in winter, the days will be pleasantly warm, but the nights will be cool enough to put on a jacket. And yes, winter is probably the best time to travel to this area, unfortunately, during the rest of the year the weather is unbearably hot here.
The territory of present Bushehr has been inhabited since the ancient times, however, it became a port of great importance in the 18th century. It was highly valued and used by foreigners, especially England. It was a significant port on the route from India to Europe for East India Company. Great Britain even used to have a consulate here! Bushehr has always been a city where many cultures and religions lived peacefully side by side.
The historical background has shaped what the people of this city are now – they are extremely friendly (you might have heard that all Iranians are friendly and welcoming, but Bushehris – probably the most). We talked to a couple who moved here from a different Iranian city, and they say that Bushehris would never give you a higher price or embellish the quality of their goods if they realize that you are not local. And during this one day that we stayed in Bushehr, we fully realized that hospitality of the people.
WHAT TO DO IN BUSHEHR
Wander Around the Historical Center
Just like any other Iranian city, Bushehr has a historical center that is worth a good walk. The area is full of old historical houses that remind of the Gulf architecture than traditional Persian one. Anyway, it is definitely different from what you would see in Kashan, Yazd or Shiraz. The good news is that some of these houses were turned into museums, and some – in hotels or guesthouses, so you will have an opportunity to look at the architecture of a traditional Bushehri house from the inside. At the end of the post, I will share the names of a few traditional guesthouses, so make sure to read till the end.
I am not a museum person myself, but visiting a museum in Bushehr can be a great opportunity to sneak into a traditional house and see what it looks like from the inside. So, I would recommend to visit at least one of the following museums (all of them are located in the historical district, so you will likely pass them by anyway): the Anthropology Museum (the Taheri Mansion), the Museum of Medical History and the Museum of Musical Instruments (music will follow you in Bushehr everywhere, I will tell you why later).
Other places you wouldn`t want to miss are the fish market (at least for the vibe) and Hajj Raeis Bazaar which now houses a few tapestry workshops and of course, a workshop of musical instruments.
Spend Time By The Sea
The seashore and the beaches in Bushehr are naturally the most favorite place to spend time for locals. There are lots of parks and beaches on the left side of Bushehr along the coastal road, but locals recommended Rishahr Beach. However, you need to remember that on public beaches women are allowed to swim only fully covered. So that may not be the best place for a beach vacation (go to Qeshm or little islands around it for that).
Even if you can`t swim or relax on the beach, there are tons of other things to do. You can enjoy water sports, for example SUP boards that have become extremely popular in Iran recently, or just rent a boat that will take you to the sea.
Also, you can go to Jofreh pier to check out fishing motorboats and ‘lenj’ boats that are traditionally used in this region. A ‘lenj’ is a boat of various sizes with a small wooden room painted blue on it. Smaller ones are used for fishing, while bigger boats sail to other countries and bring various goods.
Finally, in downtown Bushehr, people gather at the shore in the evening, have local snacks, listen to local street music and just chill. So, it can be a great opportunity to make friends with locals and immerse yourself into the local culture or just do some people watching.
It would be a good idea to come to the shore around sunset, watch it from one the cafes on the shore over a cup of coffee or a waterpipe, and then just stay in the area for the rest of the evening. Although, there is something else you can do in the evening, especially if it`s a weekend.
Listen to the Local Music
As I have already mentioned, music will follow you everywhere in Bushehr because it has always played a huge role in the life of people here. Bushehris have developed a strong musical tradition influenced by their lifestyle and the musical instruments popular in the area. Bushehri music is appreciated and loved by all Iranians and it is probably the most energetic music you would hear anywhere in Iran.
Since most men in this region used to spend long periods of time at sea, doing manual work like fishing, they have developed work songs that help them get in tune doing a certain type of work, work more efficiently and cheer up while doing hard work.
Bushehr province has its own authentic tradition of religious music, i.e. music used in religious ceremonies, especially mourning ceremonies like Moharram mourning ceremonies commemorating the death of Imam Hossein. You can watch the examples of this music here and here.
Beside work songs and religious tunes, there is another popular type of songs in this region called Khayyam-khani. These songs are based on poems by famous medieval Iranian poet and scientist Omar Khayyam. His poems are famous for being philosophical, but also for having a very positive vibe. it is best to seize the moment and spend the passing days in joy. You may think that these songs might sound very spiritual and transcendent, however, you`d be surprised to know that these songs (although start quite slowly) are probably the most energetic and lively songs you have ever heard. I have included one in my Bushehr vlog, so check it out and see for yourself.
One of the most famous Bushehri musical instruments is ‘ney-amban’ (also known as ney-anban) that is a type of bagpipe, and it is a pleasure to see a master playing this instrument.
There are a few spots where you can listen to local music of Bushehr like Hajj Raeis Guesthouse (it also hosts the annual local music festival), Naji Café (charges for the show), and Golha Café (it has shows every single night and doesn`t charge for the show). You should keep in mind though that most shows are usually held at the weekend.
Local Food
If you ever find yourself in Bushehr, you’re in for a treat when it comes to local food! This coastal city by the Persian Gulf is all about fresh seafood. Fish and shrimps are often cooked with lots of herbs like coriander and fenugreek. One must-try dish is Gheliye Mahi (with fish) or Gheliye Meygoo (with shrimps), a stew that’s tangy with tamarind and packed with garlic and herbs. Another favorite is Dampokht-e Mahi (or Meygoo is you prefer shrimps), a fish and rice dish that’s super flavorful thanks to dill and sometimes coriander. The spices here, like turmeric, cumin, and black pepper, give the food a warm, hearty kick.
Bushehr is famous for its street food, too. Don`t leave the city without having tried Sosis Bandari, sausages cooked with onion, tomato paste and tons of spices.
And let’s not forget the dates! Bushehr’s date products add a sweet twist to both savory and sweet dishes.
Sights Outside Bushehr
There are a few places where you can have a day-trip from Bushehr. Bushehr is famous for its dates, so it may be a good idea to drive to the area abundant in date palm trees in Ab Pakhsh (to the north from Bushehr). You can enjoy the beaches along the coast, like Barboo Beach, or take a look at the cemetery of Lenj boats (typical to this area) where you can wander around old boats on a stranded beach near Mohammad Ameri village.
One more place that you can take a day-trip to is Jashak Salt Caves. This place is surreal! A salt river wavering between mountains, the place has a hiking route that takes you to a few salt caves. The place is pretty empty and wild, so it`s better to join a local day tour to go there (most of the tours of this kind are organized on weekends or public holidays).
How to Get There and Around
Bushehr is 1,000 km away from Tehran, so the easiest and fastest way to get there would be to take a plane. There is no railway straight to Bushehr, but another option would be to take a train from Tehran to Shiraz and go the rest of the journey by bus, Bushehr is just 300 km away from Shiraz.
Inside the city, you would probably spend most of your time in the historical neighborhood downtown, so you will be able to walk to any of the sights. Otherwise, Snapp works perfectly well in Bushehr too.
Where to Stay in Bushehr
For a more authentic experience, consider staying at a local guesthouse, where you can enjoy traditional Iranian hospitality and perhaps even some home-cooked meals (at a separate price). These smaller establishments often provide a more personal touch, a chance to interact with locals as well as individual or group tours inside and outside the city. Here are the most popular ones: Hajj Raeis, Maan Hamishe Sabz, Ahid, Khane-ye Mahrpooya.
You need to keep in mind, though, that these guesthouses are located into traditional houses with traditional Gulf architecture, so they may not be able to provide standard bathrooms in each room, or some rooms may have only floor bedding. However, if you ask me, that`s the part of the experience.
Another point worth mentioning is that due to a very short tourist season in this region (late autumn till early spring), prices may be higher than in other cities that can accommodate tourists all year round.
Bushehr is a great weekend escape from Tehran, especially in winter when the air in Tehran becomes unbearably polluted. It can be a good place to travel to if you are visiting Shiraz or Khuzestan Province (that is famous for its ancient sites like Susa). It can be a brilliant starting or ending point of a trip along the coastline, from/to Bandar-Abbas.
Personal Experience
My husband and I visited Bushehr as part of our road-trip from Tehran to the Persian Gulf. We started by visiting Arak, then driving to Isfahan and Shiraz. We left Shiraz, drove to Beyshapoor (Bishapour) to see some Sassanid sites including the statue of Shapoor I, and from there we drove to Bushehr. We stayed in Bushehr for only one full day, but we did pretty much everything: we wandered around the historical center, visited a museum, tried some local food (Dampokht-e Meygoo and fish kebab which was very tender and super delicious), watched sunset over a coffee and finally, visited a Khayam-khani show. I suppose we couldn`t spend this day in a better way.
On the next day we drove to Barboo Beach and then Jashak Salt Caves, however, we decided not to walk to any of the caves because 1) we didn`t have much time, 2) we were completely alone there, so we didn`t want to get lost or something, 3) what`s more, there was a sand storm or something, so we couldn`t see very far ahead of us. But I really hope that we return someday with a tour and visit this place properly.
Final Word
I believe that every Iranian city, no, every place in the world has something to offer to a curious traveler, but I must say, Bushehr just made me fall in love with it. Not particularly with the city, maybe, but with the people, music, and the spirit. And this is the city where I would love to return again someday.
What was the place with the most hospitable people and positive energy you have visited?
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